Exploring the winter wonders of Kolapore Uplands
stories & photos by
Allison Kennedy Davies
A blanket of freshly fallen snow greets me as I snowshoe my way to the base of Metcalfe Rock. It’s cold today, nearly -20˚C, and my breath is freezing on my eyelashes. I’ve got my daypack loaded with water and snacks, and I’m all layered up in typical Canadian winter fashion.
The first thing I notice, as I make my way to the top of the Escarpment along the Bruce Trail, is how quiet it is. In total, I am out for over an hour, and I don’t encounter a single person. I hear birds, I see tracks, and I find evidence of some huge wild turkeys, but aside from the wildlife, I’m enjoying this beautiful Metcalfe morning on my own. It’s not hard to see why Metcalfe Rock and the Kolapore Uplands have found a special place in many people’s lives.
Although a popular hiking, biking and rock-climbing spot, fewer venture here during the winter months.
Whether you’re skiing the 50 kilometres of backcountry ski trails in Kolapore Uplands, exploring the Bruce Trail by snowshoe, or experiencing the thrill and challenge of winter caving, new adventures await when the snow flies at Metcalfe Rock.
Into the Deep
After my silent snowshoe excursion, my next winter visit to Metcalfe is a totally different experience. We meet our guide, Jennie Elmslie of Free Spirit Tours, in the parking lot and she helps us suit up with snowshoes, helmets and headlamps. There’s less silence and more laughter this time. Elmslie is ready to share her love of this place on our guided winter caving adventure.
Elmslie has made Metcalfe Rock her ‘office’ for years. Between leading rock-climbing and caving tours in the summer to spending her winters guiding snowshoe and caving experiences, you’ll find her at Metcalfe most days.
“Every day in the winter is a little bit different,” explains Elmslie. “Some days, depending on the weather, there is a frost that will stick on the rock. That’s so beautiful. When you walk into the crevice you can’t believe it. Then the next day, that frost might be gone, but there’s been a snowfall overnight and fresh snow is clinging to the trees. Every day is unique. You never know what you’re going to get.”
On this day, we get a taste of everything. While there’s fresh snow during our snowshoe on the Metcalfe Crevice Side Trail, there’s also a thick coating of ice on the rock walls. It’s a pretty amazing sight but it also makes for a tricky entrance to the ice cave. There’s a lot of teamwork involved, as people work together to pass backpacks, offering support and extra balance.
Elmslie has taken groups of all experience levels and ages (from eight years old up to 70) snowshoeing and caving at Metcalfe. Even if you’re familiar with the area, it’s a totally different landscape when the rocks are covered in snow. Having a guide in this marshmallow-laden wonderland is a wise idea.
“If you’re not familiar with the area, especially with snow, there are spots with gaps and holes and cracks all over,” explains Elmslie. “It’s easy to get your foot caught. We know where all those spots are. You also have to know where you’re going in the caves. It’s really easy to get lost. We are there to help keep you safe.”
Free Spirit Tours offers several winter options at Metcalfe Rock, including snowshoe tours, caving tours, and an increasingly popular snowshoe and wine-tasting option at Georgian Hills Vineyard. Pickup is available from Blue Mountain and downtown Collingwood (this is advisable, as winter parking at Metcalfe is very limited). Snowshoe and caving tours typically overlap, with groups meeting around the fire for hot apple cider after their explorations.
While there are several popular caves at Metcalfe (the Anvil Cave, the Bat Cave, the Tunnel Cave and the Ice Cave), winter tours usually only have time for one to two caves maximum after the extra time spent snowshoeing. On our tour, we get to explore the Ice Cave, aptly named because ice persists at depth well into the summer months.
In general, caving at Metcalfe requires some tight squeezes, extra patience, trust in your guide, and some physical strength. You will leave tired, dirty, wet and satisfied. “Caving blows people’s minds, “ remarks Elmslie.
“They are giddy when they get out. They surprise themselves with their abilities.” Elmslie also describes this journey into the earth as spiritual. Cavers give an offering of white sage before descending. “You’re essentially going into Mother Earth, so it’s not to be taken lightly,” explains Elmslie. “We give an offering, we talk to the earth, and we give our respect. You don’t have to believe in anything specific, but we do say thanks to the earth for this experience. People love it.”
Into the Wild
While the Bruce Trail takes hikers and showshoers right through Metcalfe Crevice, the long-standing, much-celebrated Kolapore Trails continue beyond that. With 50 kilometres of trails spanning the Kolapore Uplands area (and extending down to the University of Toronto Outing Club cabin at the base of Metcalfe Rock), the options for cross-country skiing are amazing.
Cross-country skiing on groomed and track-set trails has gained popularity in recent years, but Kolapore Wilderness Trails Association president Bruce King says the same surge hasn’t really been seen at Kolapore. This is great news for those looking for a true backcountry ski experience.
Skiing at Kolapore is a unique animal … and a variable animal. King first fell in love with the area back in 1973 as a University of Toronto student. He now calls the Uplands home and has seen the Kolapore trails at their best and worst.
“Skiing at Kolapore on good days can be absolutely wonderful,” explains King. “You have this beautiful powder snow, you’re there on your own and it’s great scenery with narrow trails and wonderful hills. On a good day, it’s truly wonderful … but on a bad day, it’s terrible. You really have to pick your days. The good days are fabulous, but you really shouldn’t be on the Kolapore trails on an icy day.”
Having turned back from those icy conditions on the Kolapore trails myself, I can assure you King is correct. Thankfully the Kolapore Wilderness Trails Association posts up-to-date trail conditions during the winter months, so you’ll know what you’re getting into well before you load your car. You’ll find the latest trail conditions by visiting www.kolaporetrails.org and clicking on the Trail Conditions tab.
With 50 kilometres of trails, where should a Kolapore newbie start? Honestly, by buying a map, says King. Updated this summer, the Kolapore Wildnerness Trails Association map is an indispensable tool for anyone hitting the trails, in summer or winter. Maps can be ordered online at the association’s website or purchased at the Ravenna Country Market, Little Ed’s Ski and Bike Shop, the Georgian Triangle Tourist Association or the Kimberley General Store for $5.
With your map in hand, King recommends newer skiers park at one of the two south access points. Metcalfe Rock is not a recommended winter access spot, again because of limited parking. “There are easier trails there that hook into more challenging trails from the South access points,” explains King. “You’ll quickly decide if this is the right activity for you. There’s a fairly short intermediate loop, a moderate length intermediate loop and some longer loops as well. But get the map! You can’t go without it!”
While there is no membership or day-use fee to use the Kolapore Trails, King encourages people to join the association, which oversees trail maintenance and planning for the trail system.
King’s last piece of advice? Invest in some gaiters! “It’s the one piece of gear that people who are used to going to groomed trails don’t think about,” he says. “There’s nothing worse than getting snow in your boots and without gaiters that’s almost guaranteed at Kolapore. It may seem like old-fashioned equipment but this really is backcountry skiing.”
Winter Wonders
From the ski slopes to the forests, Southern Georgian Bay offers incredible four-season activities. If you haven’t experienced Metcalfe Rock by snow, make this the winter you fill your thermos, pack your trail mix and explore its many wonders. ❧
