Local wines, brews and ciders abound, perfect for summer enjoyment
by Marc Huminilowycz
photo by Doug Burlock
Back in 2006, inspired by the rolling hills and dramatic Escarpment views of the Beaver Valley, I first explored the dawning of grape-growing and wine-making in the region. At the time, a few viticulture pioneers were bravely experimenting with several grape varieties, hoping to create respectable vintages in our cool northern climate. Surprisingly, despite the abundance of apple orchards in Southern Georgian Bay, no one was making hard cider here on a commercial scale. And there was only one commercial brewery in the area: Creemore Springs.
My how times have changed. While researching and writing about what’s new in wines, beers, ciders and spirits, I was astonished by the volume and diversity of cideries, breweries, wineries and distilleries either launching or expanding in the region – so many, in fact, that local tourism organizations have created tasting and culinary tours for visitors and residents eager to explore the best of our region’s beverage selection.
Wines
Georgian Hills Vineyards partners Robert Ketchin and John Ardiel began experimenting with wine grape varieties in 1998, planting their first vineyard – including several European “vinifera” varieties – in 2003, with a first harvest in 2006.
In the years since, Georgian Hills has produced some excellent wines from its vinifera vineyards; Ketchin’s favourite is a 2012 Pinot Gris. “These wines were lovely to see once in a while,” he says, “but winter damage caused by polar vortexes in successive years made us realize that vinifera is not a sustainable model for commercial wine production in the region.”
Opting for a more sustainable model, Ketchin and Ardiel replanted most of their vineyards with two cool-climate grape varieties: L’Acadie Blanc (white) and Marquette (red). To the dismay of Georgian Hills and other wineries in the region, these grapes have not yet been recognized by the VQA (the provincial authority that administers Ontario’s wine appellation system), although L’Acadie was developed in Ontario, and Marquette is an established U.S. variety.
“The VQA has a sensitivity to relatively unproven varieties in the mainstream,” Ketchin explains. “They want to see several years of high-quality wines before they give their stamp of approval. We feel that the organization needs to be more open to the genetics and indigenous nature of these varieties and recognize them as next-generation, local, cold-weather wines.” In addition to these varieties, Georgian Hills has been sourcing the best Niagara grapes and producing vinifera wines in its winery.
To the west of Georgian Hills in the Municipality of Meaford, Coffin Ridge Boutique Winery is Southern Georgian Bay’s first commercial winery, opened in 2008. Focusing on cool-climate grapes (L’Acadie, Marquette and European viniferas), Coffin Ridge has won several awards and numerous accolades over the years for its excellent signature wines: L’Acadie, Marquette, Back From The Dead Red, Into The Light White, Resurrection Rose and Riesling Bone Dry.
A relative newcomer to the region’s wine scene, The Roost Winery near Redwing is quickly establishing a reputation for quality wines made from its own cool climate grapes – L’Acadie, Marquette and Frontenac – as well as VQA European and North American varieties such as Pinot Noir, Kuhlman (red) and Siegerrebe (dessert wine). The Roost’s winery and tasting room had a busy summer when it opened last July, primarily due to viral word of mouth, according to owners Jessica and Michael Maish.
Wine production began as an experiment for the Maishes, who met while travelling and settled on Jessica’s family farm in The Blue Mountains, planting their first grapes in 2013. “In our winemaking, we embrace uniqueness with minimal spraying intervention in the vineyard, allowing our wines to speak for themselves. Our wines are clean, smooth and drinkable,” says Jessica. Three of The Roost’s 2016 wines won awards at the annual Finger Lakes International Wine Competition in New York: Gold for its Frontenac and Bronze for its Marquette and Pinot Noir Rose.
In addition to its single-grape wines, The Roost also likes to create interesting blends, happily offered to visitors in its tasting room. Jessica sees Southern Georgian Bay wineries at the forefront of producing cold-climate wines, each with different terroirs and complementing each other rather than competing. “It all depends on VQA designation,” she says. “Marquette is in application now, and we hope that L’Acadie will soon follow.”
Near Creemore, another local wine entrepreneur is marching to the beat of a different drummer. Chuck Magwood’s winery, Four Wheel Farm, is now in its seventh year of operation. Bucking the North American cool-climate grape trend, Magwood claims to be going further to take on risk than other wineries in the region, focusing on traditional European vinifera varietals – Baco Noir, Marechal Foch, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Cabernet Franc, Vidal and Syrah – despite the challenges of our Southern Georgian Bay winters.
“With varietals, we can do a lot more than people think,” says Magwood, who, at the time of this writing, was pruning four thousand vines, hoping for a good crop this year. “Every year is different, with potential challenges from the weather and disease.” Although snow-cover protection at the root does much to protect vinifera vines in extreme cold, Magwood points out that a lack of sun hours will affect the critical level of sugars in the grapes.
“We gamble with daylight,” he says, adding, “If everything works out, we’ll be selling Pinot Gris and Syrah. We’ll know around mid-May. Other wineries in the region are focusing on commercial products. I’m in it for the adventure.”
Apple Top Farm in The Blue Mountains has been growing certified organic apples for many years, and in 2012, owners Chris, Helena and Patrick Johnson decided to plant organic grapes with the hope of eventually making their own wines. Beginning with their first harvest, the Johnsons have been selling their certified organic (and biodynamic) grapes to other local wineries.
Coffin Ridge has been making barrel batches of Apple Top Marquette since 2015, and The Roost has made separate tanks of Marquette and L’Acadie from the farm’s 2017 harvest. While no date has been confirmed, the Johnsons plan to open their own certified organic winery in the near future.
Ciders
While a handful of dedicated vintners are working to establish Southern Georgian Bay as a must-visit wine region in Ontario, the number of hard ciders and beers brewed locally is growing at a far faster rate.
Established wineries Georgian Hills and Coffin Ridge both embarked on cider-making years ago to capitalize on the exploding cider trend. Georgian Hills produces two apple varieties under its Ardiel Cider House brand – Ardiel Dry Cider and Big Jon Hop Cider – and recently introduced a new beverage, Victoria Pear Cider. Coffin Ridge also sells two apple beverages: Forbidden Dry Cider and Forbidden Hopped Cider. In June, the winery released Forbidden Pink, its new raspberry cider.
Beaver Valley Cidery on Grey Road 13 is “devoted to making authentic dry ciders with minimal intervention,” says owner John Mott. Made from its own heritage apple varieties and fruit from other local orchards, the cidery focuses on specialty ciders including pear, ginger (a best-seller), cranberry, bumbleberry, and a Champagne-style cider (yet to be named), which uses secondary fermentation and the addition of sugar and yeast to create natural carbonation.
South of Collingwood, Dunridge Farm launched Duntroon Cyder House last summer with two signature ciders: Standing Rock and rhubarb-infused Rain Dance. Both varieties, made from apples from the farm’s own orchard and other local orchards, are available on-farm and at regional restaurants, farmer’s markets, summer events, golf clubs and ski clubs, and will soon be in LCBO stores. According to owner Kimberley Schneider, the cidery will be introducing a third variety later this year.
Another relatively new arrival on the cider scene, Windswept Orchard Cider, located between the Beaver and Big Head River valleys, is taking a unique approach to cider-making. Foraging abandoned orchards and hedgerows in the region (with landowner permission) and on his own farm, owner Mark Skinner collects heritage apples (now wild) offering interesting flavours to craft dry ciders fermented twice with yeast, containing no sugars or sweeteners.
Skinner has also planted a new orchard on his property, containing English, French and North American heirloom varieties. “There are endless heirloom and new varieties to be discovered and transformed into rare vintage ciders that reflect the flavours of Southern Georgian Bay, as well as a sense of time and place,” he says. Windswept plans to open a retail store in early fall.
The Great Canadian Cider Company, headquartered in Collingwood, is currently the region’s sole producer of organic cider. Using only certified organic apples from Beaver Valley orchards, personally selected by company owner Steve Roper, the ciders are made at Twin Pine Orchards in Tedford, Ontario by Michael and Mark Vansteenkiste, two of the best cider-makers in Ontario, according to Roper.
“The reason our ciders are so unique, besides being organic, is that we let our apples sit for six months to develop natural sugars, then cold ferment them for three months,” says Roper. “The result is a very low six grams of sugar per can – which is 50 to 75 per cent lower than any other cider.” Marketed as Great Organic Cider, the company offers five varieties, available at pubs and restaurants across Ontario. Currently, only its Nice & Dry cider is available at the LCBO.
Established in 2007, Thornbury Village Cider House and Brewery offers visitors a unique opportunity to sample and purchase a collection of excellent ciders, beers and wines under one roof. In addition to its signature Craft Cider and Cranberry Cider, made from local apples, Thornbury recently introduced Chocolate Raspberry and Blood Orange ciders. A new cider variety is available for tasting every month. The latest, Red Prince Apple Cider, is a collaboration with Thornbury neighbours the Botdens, who are the only growers of the Red Prince apple in Canada. This dry, crisp cider is available on tap at the Cider House and select local restaurants for a limited time only.
Beers
Thornbury Village Cider House and Brewery also offers several standouts in its beer category, with Ashanti Coffee Pale Ale, Raspberry Chipotle Stout and an Amber Lager currently available on tap at the Cider House, with flavour offerings changing according to season. Thornbury Village Pickup No. 26 Pilsner and Heritage Lager are both available at the LCBO. Both are currently brewed in Nobleton, Ontario, but the plan is to eventually locate the brewery in Thornbury. (A wide selection of Colio Wines from the north shore of Lake Erie is also available for tasting and purchase at the Cider House.)
Creemore Springs, at one time the only commercial brewery in Southern Georgian Bay, has continued to inspire beer drinkers with unique, seasonal ales, lagers and stouts for thirty years. Recently, the brewery launched a new beer series, Mad & Noisy, which includes a “Kolsch-style” Lagered Ale and a “best of both” India Pale Lager. The series will see the addition this summer of an Orange Pale Ale and a Coconut Porter in the fall. Under the Creemore Springs brand, the brewery will also be releasing three seasonal beers: Pale Wheat, Whole-Hopped Lager and Session IPA. The brewery is open seven days a week for tours and tastings.
In Collingwood, three craft breweries have enjoyed considerable success in satisfying thirsty residents and visitors to Southern Georgian Bay. Collingwood Brewery, celebrating its fourth anniversary this year, produces four signature beers: Downhill Pale Ale, Rockwell Pilsner, Kinpost ESB (Extra Special Bitter) and seasonal 3-Point Saison Farmhouse Ale.
“We have developed our latest core offering, White’s Bay IPA, which will be available throughout the summer in our Brewery and in the LCBO,” says Chris O’Connor, the brewery’s sales manager, “and we will also be doing our second annual Collingwood Craft Beer Festival this summer here at our brewery.”
Northwinds Brewery, now with locations in Collingwood and Blue Mountain Village, creates hand-crafted beers paired with locally sourced and seasonally focused food.
According to co-owner Jason Mirlocca, the brewpubs have 14 to 16 beers on tap at any given time, including seasonal and series brews like Checkered Flag Blonde Stout, Hacky Sack Kettle Sour and SMaSH (Single Malt and Single Hop). Northwinds locations include retail stores and are open seven days a week.
“We have a rotating crop of beers that we’re releasing continually,” says Mirlocca. “This summer, we’re introducing three new seasonal beers: Tree Feller Red & White IPA, Full Sail Amber Ale, and Expedition Summer Ale.”
Also celebrating its fourth year in business this year is Side Launch Brewing Company in Collingwood. Named 2016 Brewery of the Year at the Canadian Brewing Awards, Side Launch produces four signature beers – Pale Ale, Wheat, Dark Lager and Mountain Lager – plus seasonal beers Ships of Collingwood and its Man Overboard Series. According to marketing manager Bianca Santos, Side Launch has introduced Dry Hopped Sour for the summer, “a balanced and drinkable New World Ale, dry-hopped with generous amounts of Mosaic, Citra and Eldorado hops.”
Adds, Santos, “Our brewers set out to make these hops the star of this show, so they created their own version of the sour worting process to make a clean, mildly fruity and tart base as a perfect partner to the upfront citrus and fruit aromas of these hops – perfect for long and warm summer days.” Side Launch will also be introducing a small batch program, featuring beers available exclusively at the brewery.
Other new and emerging breweries in the region include Wasaga Beach Brewing Co., owned by partners David Cubitt and Peter Wilkins, makers of Beach One Cerveza, a light and refreshing lager available at regional LCBOs; Black Bellows Brewing Co., owned by Peter Braul, which specializes in Belgian-style beers such as Whitbier, brewed with elderflowers, coriander, Saville orange rind and Key lime zest, also available at local LCBO stores; and Killannan Brewing Co., owned by Spencer Wareham, which brews German styles such as Dusseldorf Alt Beer, a Kolsch Lagered Ale (in regional LCBOs and Beer Stores).
Spirits
Some readers may not know that Collingwood is home to Canada’s longest continuously owned and operated distillery. In 2011, Canadian Mist Distillers launched premium Collingwood Whisky, made with filtered Georgian Bay water and grains from Ontario farms, and matured with maplewood to impart a truly Canadian character.
In 2017, the distillery launched the first release of its limited-edition Town Collection Double Barrel Whisky, which won top honours at the 2018 Canadian Whisky Awards. Each February, Collingwood Whisky sponsors Whiskylicious, a 10-day festival that gives Collingwood’s outstanding chefs the chance to share their sweet and savoury creations inspired by the brand.
Back in 2015, On The Bay featured a new spirit company, Georgian Bay Gin, the brainchild of a pair of Toronto advertising executives, conceived on the summit of Osler Bluff ski resort. Today, Georgian Bay Spirit Co. still produces its award-winning gin, as well as Georgian Bay Vodka, which recently won Double Gold and Best Vodka at the World Spirit Competition in San Francisco.
The distillery has also introduced its Gin Smash (a sellout in LCBO stores when it was launched) and Vodka Smash – both complex, sophisticated and smooth summer beverages made with all-natural ingredients, pristine Elmvale Spring water, cane sugar and no artificial colours or flavours. A Cranberry Citrus Smash was introduced this spring.
These spirits are now produced under contract with a distillery in Vaughan, Ontario, but an (unconfirmed) rumour has it that the company may be opening a distillery in Collingwood.
Meanwhile, another distillery, Heretic Spirits, is coming to Collingwood. Scott Morrison, head of the Canadian Craft Distilling Institute, and partner Jeremy Hall, have plans to produce a whole gamut of spirits locally: whisky, rum, vodka, gin and liqueurs. With “a vision that’s bigger than us,” Morrison, Hall and four other partners have a grand plan to create a destination similar to the Niagara wine region by attracting more breweries, cideries and distilleries to Southern Georgian Bay.
With summer here, Southern Georgian Bay apple trees and grape vines have embarked on another journey to fruit and harvest, to be skilfully transformed into unique regional ciders and wines, while a growing number of breweries are creating distinctive beers for our enjoyment with friends on decks and patios. Meanwhile, local distillers have great plans, envisioning our region as a beverage and culinary destination to rival Niagara and Prince Edward County. Cheers to that! ❧
Wineries, Cideries & Breweries
Our list of wineries, cideries and breweries is growing, so there is plenty to see, do – and drink – in Southern Georgian Bay! (Please do so responsibly).
Check out the websites below to find out more about their products, tasting events and tours.
For information about beverage-related events throughout the region, visit:
Saints & Sinners Trail
saintsandsinnerstrail.com
Ciderfest
applepietrail.com/ciderfest
Whiskylicious
whiskylicious.visitsouthgeorgianbay.ca
The Beer Bus
thebeerbus.ca/bluemountain
WINERIES
Coffin Ridge Boutique Winery
Annan
coffinridge.ca
Four Wheel Farm
Creemore Hills
fourwheelfarm.ca
Georgian Hills Vineyards
The Blue Mountains
georgianhillsvineyards.ca
Hoity Toity Cellars
Mildmay
hoitytoitycellars.ca
The Roost Winery & Vineyard
The Blue Mountains
roostwinery.ca
Scotch Mountain Vineyard
Meaford
scotchmountainvineyard.com
BREWERIES & HOPS
Bighead Hops
Meaford
bigheadhops.com
Clear Valley Hops
Nottawa
clearvalleyhops.com
The Collingwood Brewery
Collingwood
thecollingwoodbrewery.com
Creemore Springs Brewery
Creemore
creemoresprings.com
Kilannan Brewing Company
Owen Sound
kilannanbrewing.ca
MacLean’s Ales Inc.
Hanover
macleansales.ca
Neustadt Springs Brewery
Neustadt
neustadtsprings.com
Northwinds Brewery Limited
Collingwood
northwindsbrewery.com
Side Launch Brewing Company
Collingwood
sidelaunchbrewing.com
Thornbury Village Cider House & Brewery
Thornbury
thornburycraft.com
Wasaga Beach Brewing Company
Wasaga Beach
wasaga.beer
CIDERIES
Ardiel Cider House
The Blue Mountains
ardielciderhouse.ca
Beaver Valley Orchard & Cidery
Kimberley
bvcider.ca
Coffin Ridge Boutique Winery
Annan
coffinridge.ca
Dunridge Farms
Duntroon
dunridgefarms.com
Duntroon Cyder House
Duntroon
duntrooncyderhouse.com
The Duxbury Cider Company
Meaford
theduxburyciderco.ca
Georgian Hills Vineyards
The Blue Mountains
georgianhillsvineyards.ca
The Great Canadian Cider Company
Collingwood
greatcider.com
Hoity Toity Cellars
Mildmay
hoitytoitycellars.ca
Reinhart’s Cidery
Stayner
reinhartscider.ca
Thornbury Village Cider House & Brewery
Thornbury
thornburycraft.com
Windswept Orchard Cidery
Beaver Valley
windsweptcider.com
